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However, Talati explains, the Parsi community is dwindling in number, and as more people rely on restaurants and food delivery services to enjoy their favorite dishes, many culinary traditions have the risk of disappearing. “My aunts and uncles don’t [always] cook traditional Parsi dishes,” he says. “They will buy takeaway food, which will be delicious and enough for the whole family to eat, but it doesn’t continue the tradition. Who will learn how to make dhansak, our spice mix, patra ni makhi and coconut chutney and dahi puris? Who will impart this knowledge? I have a chance—so I thought, why not me?” Photo: Sam A. HarrisWe met to discuss Parsi at Maison Bertaux, London’s oldest French patisserie with its famous blue-and-white striped awning, and where Talati first began writing cookbooks. firstly. Sitting outside with coffee and pies, pastry chefs from the cafe greet Talati as they leave, many reminiscing about the Parsi dinner club he once hosted there. These events — and the people involved in them — formed the initial backbone of the book, serving as a major source of inspiration alongside the meals he made (and the people he met) in his role. Current role is the chef of St. John Bread and Wine. The restaurant, a pioneer in end-to-end cooking run by Fergus Henderson and Trevor Gulliver, has also produced its own cookbooks, the format and content of which are as well. was informed to Parsi.
Like Henderson and Gulliver’s most recent book, The 2020 Book of St. John, the imagery in Parsi is a combination of spot food, raw ingredients, and people who wholeheartedly indulge in the recipes. In addition to the succulent stews and salads garnished with pomegranate seeds, you can find photos of Fergus Henderson tucking into a biryani stuffed quail, Talati’s aunts holding eggs and fashion designer Simone Rocha Photographer Eoin McLoughlin’s daughter Valentine destroys an ice cream sandwich. “It was one of my favorite series in the book!” Talati said, reminiscing about filming in St. John Bread and Wine in near-lockdown conditions. As Talati recalls, they first tried photographing desserts with an adult, before quickly realizing that somehow the sweetness (in both senses) of his creation didn’t translate. . As the sun began to set, Talati called a friend—Max Rocha, founder of the popular Broadway Market cafe, Café Cecilia—to take his niece around as a matter of urgency. In Talati’s words, the resulting photos show “all the fun and mess that eating an ice cream sandwich brings”.
Farokh Talati has always wanted to share Parsi cuisine with the world, his long-standing goal is to open a Parsi restaurant to share the traditions and innovation of the cuisine he loves. And it was this desire (and the luxury time afforded him during the pandemic when the London restaurant he worked for, St. John Bread and Wine, closed) that prompted the chef to publish the book. Her first cookbook, Parsi: From Persia to Bombay, earlier this month: a collection of recipes and photos that combine the cultural traditions of this small Indian ethnic religious group with creative community and his own chef in London. The journey of the Parsi, a group of Zoroastrians fleeing persecution during the Arab conquest of Persia in the seventh century, brought them to the shores of India—and has since continued on Global. Talati credits this blend of worldly influences for the many interesting flavors he writes about. “We get such unique flavors from Persian cooking — saffron, dried fruit and spices, pilaus and light casseroles,” he says. “And then go to India, you mix it with fish, coconut, chili, stronger spices, that masala powder, and it’s great. It’s undeniably delicious, aromatic and rich—that’s what Parsi food is all about. Maybe I’m biased, but I feel it’s undeniable.”
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